Видео

I think the screws will help hold the rails and stiles together in a way that you’d get if you used joinery (dado and tenon joinery in this case). Otherwise, if the panel flexes, you might end up with the rails and stiles separating. I haven’t actually tried this out so it’s an assumption but I’d rather the extra hold there in case the little bit of glue holding them together wants to give up the ghost.

It’s your back, big dawg. Do what you want with it.

I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!

You can do this no problem! If I can do it, anyone can (I mean that). Cabinets seem much more daunting than they really are once you get into them.

Hey! That’s a good question! Pine is pretty soft! I took a piece of mdf and hit it against some studs I have laying around to test this out and the mdf didn’t take any damage while the pine board was all dented up. So from my tests it seems mdf would hold up better to dings than pine would.

It’s really not hard. Try a couple to get the process down and make sure they turn out how you want, then batch the process and make the rest. Making sure to test fit and dry assemble along the way. Good luck!

Hey! I appreciate the compliments! Yeah, same thickness will work. I feel like the kitchen has a higher potential for damage with all the utensils and pans you move around in there. I’d probably go for the 3/4” material for that area or if you’re really set on the thinner doors, maybe make a set and try them out on the cabinet that gets the most use to see how they hold up for you. Personally, I’ve found that testing things out can be really helpful when making big decisions like that.

Building in the buff, a true renaissance man! I appreciate it! It’s the little things that reduce stress and make the process much more enjoyable.

Sands just like most other materials for me. Shouldn’t have to sand the face too much but the edges haven’t given me any problems.

@@WoodNerds okay. It appears to have a "frayed" look. I'm unable to attach as picture but that does make any sense?

@andreagiovinazzo4221 yeah, it can look fuzzy. If I use high grit sandpaper (220 grit) I don’t have any issues. Could also be the brand or quality of MDF you have? I haven’t come across any that have that problem but I’ve read others that have. Take a small piece, sand it down as a test to see how well you can get rid of it then paint it to see if the paint covers up the fuzziness.

I’m glad! Thanks for watching!

Congrats on the purchase! Should be fine to move the gantry around without the chiller. Its main function is to cool the water that gets pumped around the laser tube. Just don’t fire the laser at all and you should be good.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for leaving a comment! Cheers!

Thanks for watching, Mark! Cheers!

Agreed! It’s been a great material for me when used for proper applications and finished appropriately.

Haha! My wife was less amused! I appreciate the perspective! I’ll have to look that stuff up. Being able to keep working would make this process much more efficient! Thanks for watching and taking time to leave your thoughts! Cheers, man!

Thank you! I appreciate it! Cheers!

Hey Chris! I have found if I don’t enter the exact thickness of the material, it might affect the placement. Otherwise it might be a good idea to contact xTool and see what they might suggest.

Thank you. That helps yes. Now I am off by 0.8 mm. When you score a square and make a close view pic of that score. Does the design perfectly align with the snapshot? Xtool just sent me a standard message to calibrate the camera...

I was able to engrave on a grain of rice, so I’d expect it to act similarly to that example. Tell them the calibration didn’t get you any closer and see what they say. Unfortunately I haven’t had that issue so I don’t have great suggestions on troubleshooting steps beyond what I’ve experienced. There might also be a user group for these machines on Facebook or Reddit. Might be able to find someone on there that had the same result and help guide you through a fix. I’ve found groups like that to be extremely helpful when attempting to solve a problem.

@@WoodNerds you are nice! Thank you for your advice... I will do so. We will see.

@chrisr1241 of course! I hope it’s an easy fix! Good luck to you!

Hey Max! I agree! Mine has been great as well! It’s a really cool device. I’m working on some neat designs as we speak. Hopefully be able to put them out there in the near future. Thanks for taking time to comment! Cheers!

Monport has the worst support on the plantet. 6+ months to replace bad stop sensor, and 9+months and still waiting on main door hinges that broke in less than 3 months. I have been witness to lots of other stories in fact there is a whole facebook group of us that knows just how crappy Monports support really is. Not to mention dont ask for a wiring diagram you will get asked why do you need one and why should they provide one.

Thank you! Awesome! I hope you like it. I am working on a project using it right now!

I really appreciate that! Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment! Cheers man!

You’re not wrong. I would have resawn it if I owned a band saw haha. I considered running it through the planer but the wild grain directions might have ended in a mess.

Thank you! Still works great! Would like to see how it turns out when you do!

(Off the top of my head) Should be (area of space) divided by (width of stiles + desired gap). You might have to cut one stile or figure out the difference at the end. If that’s not exact, should get you close (I think).

I did a second cabinet door video where I show my paint process! Check it out! MDF panel works great as well, just happened to have the plywood on hand.

Hey! Very slight indication that two pieces meet. If you watch my other cabinet door video, you can see similarly what it looks like in detail.

Awesome! Pretty neat device to have. I just got a much larger industrial sized machine after enjoying my experience with the xtool.

Thank you so much! I appreciate the compliment and feedback. Being very specific and cautious is a pro and a con haha. Thank you for watching and taking time to write out your thoughts! Good luck with your projects!

I don’t have any videos like that but have had several people mention the trouble with their concrete/brick garage. You could anchor the studs to the wall and build off of that. Some of those fasteners hold incredible amounts of weight but in all honesty, I don’t have much experience with them so I’ll refrain from standing behind that as a method. I’ve seen some excellent metal shelving systems as well but they do lack the customization you get from building your own. Hard to say man, I’m sure there are some videos out there that someone with the experience can help you with that decision! Sorry I wasn’t much help.

@WoodNerds doss building the wood frame and everything bekng wood have a risk of any rotting or wood damage with usage?

@losc5372 it could, depending on the environment it lives in. If your environment is very humid, or constantly exposed to water, or always in the sun, the risk of the wood deteriorating is greater. You could always counter that by using pressure treated lumber and/or painting the wood to protect it from the elements. At this point, my setup is several years old and has no issues. I live in Phoenix AZ where it’s dry most of the year and very hot in the summer.

I personally like the flush look when rabbeting for those thin pulls. As for closing, I use those little rubber bumpers on doors and drawers so they don’t usually close all the way anyway so if you do that, I think you’ll be good. Wouldn’t hurt to make one to test before committing to all of them though.

@@WoodNerds oof, the little bumpers makes so much sense. Thanks so much for your quick reply! I’ll be buying you a drink and ordering a shirt soon. Maybe you should do a shirt design for us ladies! The stripper ones are pretty rad, tho!

@kdean509 I really appreciate that! Haha! I need to! I have trouble thinking from a girls perspective on what would be a cool design! Guys are easy! We don’t mature beyond 15.

@@WoodNerds If I come up with any ideas, I’ll send them your way! 100%, a lot of us girls carry the same humor… I know I do, lol.

@kdean509 haha! that would be great! Thank you!

The coolest use case I’ve heard for this yet haha. Thanks for watching and taking time to respond! Good luck with your game!

Hey! I appreciate that! Thanks for watching! Cheers from the US!

Without issue 🤷🏼‍♂️

Thank you, Scott! I appreciate you taking the time to comment! It helps! Cheers man!

Hey Misty! Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment! If you do, id love to know how your cabinet doors turn out!

Hey! Thanks for watching and commenting! I’m not a big fan of blanket statements like this… preference is very subjective. If you search “million dollar kitchen” and look at the results, it’s a mixed bag of styles including shaker, raised panel, and even flat slab doors (which I find the least appealing personally). To say they are cheap is a silly statement because you can make a door of any style out of any type of material. Shaker style cabinet doors made from white oak will certainly not be cheap. Raised panel doors are nice but more complicated for the average person (to whom this video is obviously targeted). The main difference between styles is simply what bits you have to create the desired profile with and if your router/shaper is strong enough to handle the rails/stiles/panels being processed(most people don’t have a shaper strong enough to shape a raised panel). I’d also argue for anything you do to your house, the more expensive the feature, the less likely it is you’ll get equal value in resale since taste is so subjective. So my advice would be, buy/build what you like.

The mdf used in this video I got from a local lumberyard.